Gion Festival (Gion Matsuri), one of Japan’s three major festivals, is a grand annual event held in Kyoto. This traditional festival dates back to the Heian period over a thousand years ago and continues to be celebrated today.
1. Overview of Gion Festival
Gion Festival spans the entire month of July, from the 1st to the 31st. It is a summer festival in which the Japanese pray for health, safety, and protection from misfortune. Throughout the festival, various rituals and events take place, including the procession of the deities, known as the “Shinkosai (Divine Procession Festival)”, where the deities are carried from Yasaka Shrine to their temporary abode, and the “Kankosai (Festival of the Return)”, where the deities are returned to Yasaka Shrine. Key attractions of Gion Festival include the Yamaboko Junko (float procession), Mikoshi Togyo (portable shrine procession), Yoiyama (evening festivities), and Hanagasa Junko (flower sunshade procession).
One of the most spectacular events is the Yamaboko Junko. This procession features enormous and intricately decorated floats called “Yamaboko” that can reach heights equivalent to 5-8 story buildings. These floats are pulled through the streets by teams of people. The three days leading up to the procession are known as “Yoiyama”, during which the floats are illuminated by lanterns in the evenings. Additionally, the “Mikoshi Togyo” involves carrying portable shrines through the streets as part of the rituals to honor and appease the deities.
During the Gion Festival, you can also spot traditional decorations known as “Chimaki” hanging at the entrances of homes and shops. These talismans, made from bamboo grass, rice straw, and rush grass, are sold at the float towns’ gathering places and serve as charms to ward off evil. Unlike typical chimaki, which are edible and contain rice or mochi, these are purely ornamental. Recently, some areas have started selling edible chimaki for the festival.
2. Highlights of the Gion Festival
Gion Festival kicks off on July 1st with the “Kippu-iri (opening ceremony)”, marking the beginning of the festival. On July 2nd, the “Kujitori-shiki (lottery drawing ceremony)” determines the order of the Yamaboko floats for the procession. On July 10th, the “Mikoshi-arai (Purification of the Sacred Palanquin)” ceremony is held at Shijo Bridge, where the portable shrine (mikoshi) of the principal deity, is purified with water from the Kamo River. Between July 10th and 14th, the towns begin assembling the Yamaboko floats.
The Yamaboko Junko and Yoiyama events each occur twice. The Yamaboko Junko takes place at “Saki Matsuri” (Early Festival) on July 17th and “Ato Matsuri” (Latter festival) on July 24th. The Yoiyama takes place from July 14th to 16th, the three days leading to “Saki Matsuri” and from July 21st to 23rd, the three days leading to “Ato Matsuri”.
After the deities have been paraded through the city, they return to Yasaka Shrine on July 28th with another Mikoshi-arai ceremony at Shijo Bridge. The festival concludes on July 31st with “the Eki-jinja Nagoshi-sai (the Plague God Shrine Festival)” at Yasaka Shrine, drawing the month-long celebration to a close.
3. Yoiyama
The three nights leading up to the Yamaboko Junko procession are known as “Yoiyama”. For the Saki Matsuri, the Yoiyama is from July 14th to 16th, and for the Ato Matsuri, the Yoiyama takes place from July 21st to 23rd. During these evenings, the Yamaboko floats are illuminated with lanterns, and the streets are filled with the lively sounds of gongs and drums playing festive music. Street vendors line the paths, adding to the bustling and vibrant atmosphere. This is a prime time to experience the unique charm of Japanese festivals.
4. Yamaboko Junko & Mikoshi Togyo
The “Yamaboko Junko” processions are the main attractions, occurring on July 17th during the Saki Matsuri and 24th during the Ato Matsuri. During the Saki Matsuri, 23 floats parade depart from Shijo-Karasuma, moving towards Karasuma-Oike, while during the Ato Matsuri, 11 floats travel the reverse route back to Shijo Karasuma.
These massive floats, pulled by teams of 40 to 50 people, do not have steering mechanisms. At intersections, they are turned by placing bamboo slats under the wheels and pouring water while maneuvering them, a process known as “Tsuji-mawashi”. The sight of these colossal floats turning corners, accompanied by the spirited shouts of the pullers, is one of the festival’s highlights.
After the Yamaboko Junko on the afternoons of July 17th and 24th, the “Mikoshi Togyo” takes place. On the 17th, the “Shinkosai” involves three portable shrines leaving Yasaka Shrine around 6 PM and parading through the town until they reach the “Otabisho” (temporary abode) at Shijo Teramachi, where they remain until the 24th.
On the 24th, starting from 5 PM, the “Kankosai” sees these shrines return to Yasaka Shrine, completing the ritual.
5. Experiencing Kyoto during Gion Matsuri
Visitors to Kyoto during Gion Matsuri often enjoy renting traditional Japanese attire like kimonos or yukatas. These outfits, complete with accessories such as hairpins, Japanese-style bags, and wooden clogs, allow you to fully immerse yourself in the festive atmosphere. Participating in the festival while dressed in traditional clothing enhances the experience, making it even more memorable.
6. Getting There
To attend Gion Matsuri, it’s best to use public transportation. Key attractions like the “Yamaboko Junko” can be accessed via subway stations such as Shijo Station, Kawaramachi Station, Kyoto City Hall Station, and Karasuma Oike Station. From JR Kyoto Station, it’s only about a 10-minute subway ride to these stations.
7. Historical Origins of Gion Matsuri
Gion Matsuri’s origins date back to 869 AD, during a time of natural disasters and epidemics. Earthquakes struck northeastern Japan, Mt. Fuji erupted, and Kyoto was ravaged by plague. People believed these calamities were caused by vengeful spirits. To appease these spirits, 66 halberds, one for each of the traditional provinces of Japan, were set up at Shinsen-en, a garden in the south of the imperial palace, and boys from the city were sent there to pray for divine intervention from the deities of Gion. This ritual, known as “Gion Goryo-e (Gion Ghost Ritual)”, is considered the earliest form of what would become the modern Gion Matsuri, intended to dispel misfortune and bring peace.
