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Durbar Square

Durbar Square is a showcase of ancient architectural art from the 16th to 19th centuries in Nepal, showcasing the peak of Nepalese architectural achievement. Here, history and the present intertwine, art and life blend together, making it a cultural treasure trove people never tire of talking about. And there are three such squares in the Kathmandu Valley.

In Nepali, Durbar means “royal palace”, so Durbar Square translates to “Royal Palace Square”. Today, the three Durbar Squares are located in Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. Their origins trace back to a palace coup during the late Malla Dynasty.

From 1201 to 1769—a span of 568 years—Nepal was ruled by the Malla Dynasty. At the end of King Yaksha Malla’s reign, his three sons each declared themselves kings, dividing the Malla Kingdom into three independent kingdoms: Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur.

The three kingdoms not only fought over territory and trade routes, but also fiercely competed in culture and architectural artistry. Each established its own Durbar Square, building grand palaces, temples, statues, and other structures within the square. As a result, Nepal’s architecture, sculpture, and metal casting techniques experienced rapid development.

The Malla Dynasty faded into the dust of history, but its architectural artistry has been remarkably well preserved.

 

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Among the three Durbar Squares, Kathmandu’s is now the most vibrant. The royal palace on the square continued to be used during the Shah Dynasty, which followed the Malla rule, until 1970, when the royal family relocated to the new Narayanhiti Palace. After the relocation, the old palace was transformed into the Nepal National Museum. Today, it houses portraits of former kings, along with a vast collection of artifacts and photographs, offering visitors a glimpse into the history of Nepal’s royal heritage.

 

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Compared to the other two, Patan’s Durbar Square feels more refined and compact. Thanks to Patan’s long-standing Buddhist heritage, the rectangular square is home to numerous uniquely styled temples, offering both visual delight and places for worship. Part of the old royal palace on the square has been converted into the Patan Palace Museum, which houses an impressive collection of Hindu and Buddhist sculptures—well worth a visit.

British traveler E.A. Powell once said, “Were there nothing else in Nepal, save the Durbar Square of Bhatgoan, it would still be amply worth making a journey half way round the globe to see.” Such high praise speaks volumes about the cultural value of Bhaktapur.

 

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Bhaktapur was the most powerful of the three kingdoms at the time, and its Durbar Square is also the largest, richest in content, and most culturally profound among the three. The square’s palaces, courtyards, temples, and statues—each with its own unique artistic character—collectively paint a magnificent picture of medieval Nepal. For this reason, it is often hailed as “the essence and treasure trove of medieval Nepalese art”.

The most iconic structure in Bhaktapur is the Palace of 55 Windows. The 55 intricately carved, black-lacquered sandalwood windows lined along the palace wall represent the pinnacle of woodcarving craftsmanship during the Malla Dynasty. Legend has it that women of the royal palace were not permitted to roam the streets freely, so the palace was built with these windows to allow them a view of the outside world.

When visiting Nepal, be sure to explore these three Durbar Squares—where echoes of a distant past await amidst the bustle of the modern city.

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