In Hinduism, Indra is regarded as the god of clouds and rain, while in Buddhism, Indra is the ruler of the heavens. Therefore, Indra Jatra is a festival celebrated by both Hindus and Buddhists. It takes place every year in September (the fifth month of the Nepalese calendar), with people gathering in the streets to celebrate together.
There are many different stories about the origins of Indra Jatra. One of the most widely told legends says that Indra’s mother needed a special flower that bloomed in the Kathmandu Valley for a ritual performance. To help her, Indra disguised himself as an ordinary person and went to the valley to pick the flower. However, the local people mistook him for a thief and tied him up for public display. Later, Indra’s mother arrived in search of him, and when the people discovered his true identity, they released him. In return, Indra’s mother promised to provide enough dew during the upcoming dry season to sustain the crops in the Kathmandu Valley. To celebrate the harvest and express gratitude to nature, people began observing Indra Jatra.
Kathmandu’s Durbar Square is the main and most vibrant location for celebrating Indra Jatra. The festival officially begins when the ceremonial pole—a 36-foot-long tree trunk, ritually sanctified and adorned— is raised, plunging the entire city into a mystical whirl where gods and humans dance together. Following this, people offer sacrifices to Indra, weaving together mythological reenactments, political rituals, and cosmic symbolism into a grand celebration that transcends dimensions.
The most highly anticipated event of the festival is the procession of the Living Goddess Kumari, who emerges from her temple and rides in an ornate chariot, allowing devotees to pay their respects. Kumari, the Living Goddess, is traditionally chosen from the Shakya caste of the Kathmandu Valley and must meet numerous criteria. She is regarded as the earthly embodiment of the goddess, symbolizing purity, divinity, and power. From the king to the common people, Nepalese worship her with deep reverence.
Before the goddess’s procession begins, the barrier covering the white Bhairab mask beside Hanuman Dhoka Palace is removed, revealing its fierce and intimidating face. People also hang handmade white Bhairab masks along the streets, symbolically guarding the goddess’s path during her grand procession.
During the goddess’s procession, three beautifully decorated chariots carrying representations of the deities—Ganesh (the elephant-headed god), Bhairava (the fearsome deity), and Kumari (the living goddess)—parade along the festival route in Kathmandu, accompanied by musical bands. Crowds gather in the streets to welcome and witness the grand spectacle.
As the goddess passes by the White Bhairava mask, she must stop and bow to show her respect. Then, to the sound of music, a pipe from the gaping mouth of the White Bhairava mask begins to flow with rice wine. Nepalis eagerly rush to take a sip of this blessed drink, believing it will bring them good fortune for the entire year.
Along the parade route, many people reenact Indra’s mythological legends, filling the entire festival with excitement and surprises.
